Visit to former Stasi prison

The interior courtyard at the Stasi prison.

As I prepare to depart Berlin for a long trip back to San Diego (via Paris and Atlanta, with flight delays already announced), I have much to think about and reflect on related to this trip. In the coming days I will include various post-trip musings as I'm uncomfortable having my final post from this trip focus on the Stasi (see below).

On my final full day in Berlin, we spent the morning at a factory known world-wide for its professional make-up products. This visit was included because it is an illustration of the school-to-work transition. We met briefly with a young woman who was completing a two year internship at the company, splitting her time between work and classes. The school/work model sounded promising, but given time constraints the young woman only spent a few minutes with the group, not enough time for more in-depth questions.

If the morning’s activities weren’t the highlight of this trip, the afternoon visit to a former Stasi(East German secret police) prison is an experience I will carry with me for a long time.Located in what was at one time the Berlin-Hohenschonhausen restricted area, the compound of drab brick buildings is still imposing and somber despite being out of use for over twenty years. The facility includes two former prisons, both used by Stasi for interrogation and extraction of information. The older of the prisons is subterranean and damp; entering the cell block our guided tour grew quiet. We visited 12 by 12 foot cells that at one time held eight or more prisoners; we learned of a woman sentenced to 25 years in prison for making a joke about Stalin, and another inmate who served 10 years for painting lipstick on a political leader’s statue.

A torture device for interrogation; water dripped incessantly on a prisoner's head until droplets felt like blows from a hammer.

Subterranean cells.

A truck used to transport prisoners, often disguised as an everyday delivery vehicle.

The front gate today (above) and during the Cold War.

Apart from feeling repulsed by stories and evidence of the level of cruelty and deprivation visited upon prisoners, I was stunned by the obsessive and paranoid detail the Stasi employed in capturing East German citizens and breaking their spirit. It is estimated that before the Stasi headquarters was overrun by outraged citizens in 1989, one of every 63 citizens of East Germany was a Stasi informant in some way, not to mention the nearly 100,000 Stasi officers. Our guide re-enacted some psychological tactics the Stasi used, several of us in the tour group sitting in positions within an interrogation room. The second prison on our tour had a one to one ratio between cells and interrogation rooms, the goal to have every prisoner under interrogation daily for up to eight hours.

Toward the end of the tour, we entered a long hallway with pale yellow linoleum flooring; the air was thick and acrid. “History is something you can read, see, touch, and also smell,” our guide said, referring to the lingering scent of chemical sanitizers used to clean floors while the prison was in operation. The museum operators have preserved the authenticity of the former prison by not replacing the flooring. Of course it would have been easier to scrub away some of these memories, but important lessons of the past would have been lost in the process.

I could go on and on about how oppressive the former Stasi were, how this facility still embodies their cruelty, about how incomprehensible it seems to me that civil society in East Berlin didn’t know about this facility in their midst (then again, I have never lived under such a regime and can't claim any credibility in my conclusion), about the foreboding architecture of this area of the city. While some of this may be true, there are always multiple perspectives, a fact I have appreciated not only about this visit to the prison but other experiences during my time in Berlin. It was courageous for the Checkpoint Charlie foundation to include this as well as the Otto Weidt museum on our itinerary; they could have substituted with other less emotional or controversial outings, but what lessons would we have missed?

Due to a slow connection, I am currently having challenges uploading photos. I will insert these as soon as possible.

World Cup from Berlin

I just got back to the hotel after watching Germany play Australia in the first round of the World Cup. We had dinner and viewed the game in the outdoor patio of an Italian restaurant. The game was lopsided from the start, with Germany ultimately prevailing 4-0. At the final whistle, the streets erupted. Overloaded cars streamed past, passengers waving the German flags and blowing horns; motorists revved their engines and blew their horns, despite the police blockades on main thoroughfares; pedestrians broke into spontaneous song and dance. I can only imagine what the celebrations will be like if Germany wins their next game.

World Cup Fever!

Ready for the World Cup!

Otto Weidt's Workshop for the Blind

Today we visited the Otto Weidt museum, located in the building where this courageous factory owner employed deaf and blind Jews during World War II. Himself of limited eyesight, Weidt bribed local Nazi officials and convinced them that his factory's products--brushes and brooms--were essential to the war effort because soldiers' shoes and uniforms needed to be kept clean. Despite his efforts to win over local authorities, Weidt prepared for the inevitable raids on his business. The building had a number of hiding places, including a secret room accessed only by moving a heavy bureau.

When several of Weidt's employees were captured and sent to a Nazi camp, he managed to send them food and supplies; the prisoners communicated their needs to him through codes embedded in postcard addresses. For example, if prisoners needed bread they would send a postcard to Weidt's street address in the name of a fictitious baker.

Weidt died of natural causes soon after the war; some who knew him claimed he died of a broken heart at not being able to save more Jews. He is known as the Oscar Schindler of Berlin.

After visiting the museum we took a neighborhood walking tour, and learned about the "stumbling stones," small commemorative plaques that have been placed in locations around Europe where Jews were captured and murdered. The idea is that the slightly-raised plaques will cause pedestrians to stumble and never forget the past.

We finished the tour in the local Jewish cemetery, where a Holocaust statue stands near the entrance. Instead of flowers there are stones at the statues' feet, symbolizing eternal remembrance.

I appreciated the intimate nature of this museum, and the compelling personal stories of courage and inventiveness in the face of unspeakable cruelty and destruction.

Machine for making brushes, adapted for blind workers.

Prisoners communicated with Weidt using codes hidden in postcards.

Holocaust statue, with stones in place of flowers.

One of thousands of commemorative stumbling stones.

River Tour and Qi Show

Saturday dawned cold and windy, and a light drizzle fell as we made our way down the Spree river on a boat tour of the city and outlying areas. Our vessel, the mighty Moby Dick, featured a full restaurant (which came in handy when it got too wet to ride on the open air deck--bockwurst and bread with mustard) and a bow and stern decorated to look like the famous white whale complete with giant teeth.

Seeing a city from the water gave a new perspective; we passed modest but tidy vacation homes, campgrounds, recreational boaters, and clusters of lawnchairs and umbrellas on the shoreline--all that was missing was the sun.

We traveled under countless bridges on the three hour trip, some so low that the wheelhouse had to be lowered to allow our boat to pass. Navigating the lowest bridges, all passengers on the top deck had to sit down for safety. I didn't catch the captain's announcement in German the first time he warned us, but luckily I saw the other passengers ducking and followed suit.

After shopping for some gifts in the afternoon, we attended the Qi show at the Friedrichstadt Palast theater. Qi is similar to Cirque de Soleil, and featured amazing acrobats and trapeze artists as well as a variety of dance routines. The trapeze performers in particular combined power, grace, creativity, and courage. I picked up a copy of the show's DVD for my daughter the dancer. The Friedrichstadt Palast is located in the former East Berlin; before German reunification the venue was reserved only for political elites which made spending an evening there even more memorable for me.

Top deck of the Moby Dick.

Vacation homes along the Spree River.

The great white whale.

Visit to Dresden

Today we traveled about two hours south of Berlin to Dresden in the state of Saxony. The city sits on the banks of the Elbe River, and today's weather was perfect for sightseeing--sunny and warm (by German standards) with a breeze.

We began with a horse-drawn carriage tour of the city center. As we moved slowly over the cobblestones, our guide shared a glimpse of the city's history which includes many contributions to the modern world (some inventions attributed to Dresden include the coffee filter, tea bag, carbonated beverages, and rat poison). The city is also known for perhaps its darkest hours when at the tail end of World War II an onslaught of Allied bombing raids reduced much of the city to rubble. The main cathedral collapsed in flames, its cupula crashing to earth from hundreds of feet.

After the fall of the Berlin Wall, civic groups launched a lengthy planning and fundraising campaign aimed at rebuilding the cathedral. In 2005 the restored cathedral was finally consecrated. The reconstruction process was painstaking in its detail and awe-inspiring in its scope: each stone from the rubble was measured, labeled, and catalogued. A computer generated plan then incorporated as many of the original stone fragments as possible. The years-long rebuilding process managed to place nearly half of the original stones in their places with a high degree of accuracy.

I was deeply moved by the story of the cathedral and its renaissance. It stands as a testament to the power of forgiveness, imagination, hope, and persistence.

After completing the city carriage tour and exploring on foot, we watched the first game of the 2010 World Cup, South Africa vs. Mexico. The teams played to a 1-1 tie, with goalkeepers on both sides deflecting several ferocious shots. I look forward to watching Germany play on Sunday, hopefully at an outdoor public viewing. My Germany soccer jersey is all ready to go, thanks to Frau Schafer and Frau Goehler.

Tomorrow we are taking a boat tour of Berlin, followed by an evening cultural event. I plan on getting up early to explore another area of the city on my run.

Thanks to all who have been following along on this adventure, and especially the students at AEACMS.

Warmly,

DS

I wasn't sure what to think when this knight starting swinging the sword.

Some of my new friends from the Middle Ages.

A fine soccer-viewing establishment. I saw several South Africa jerseys but I think Principal Vaughn and I were the only ones cheering for Mexico.

A controversial work of public art. When it was being constructed, many in Dresden thought it was simply intended as a temporary scaffolding for a construction project.

The center of Dresden.

View from the top of the cathedral.

Reconstructed cathedral. Note the darker portion along the left side--this is a piece of the original structure, darkened through oxidizing. The rest of the building is expected to match this hue in fifty years or so.

Dresden as it appeared after the Allied bombings (above), compared to before.

Our transportation in Dresden.

Photos from Albert Einstein Gymnasium

Following are photos from Albert Einstein Gymnasium on the outskirts of Berlin:

Science lab.

Collage of Albert Einstein photos.
View from the main office at Albert Einstein Gymnasium.

While the computer lab featured several smartboards, in general Albert Einstein gymnasium has less computer technology than AEACMS. Most classrooms still have chalkboards (though these do move vertically!).

Principal of Albert Einstein Gymnasium.

Can you spot Albert Einstein in this photo?

Courtyard at Albert Einstein Gymnasium.

Can you spot Albert?
Meeting with high school students who served as our guides.

Thanks for following my blog.

DS

Albert Einstein Gymnasium (grades 7-13)

We visited the Albert Einstein Gymnasium (grades 7-13) today, located in a leafy industrial sector on the outskirts of Berlin. On the cab ride to the school I initially focused on the Mexican Restaurant nearby that will be screening the Word Cup opening match this weekend, but arriving on campus I was soon distracted by the countless wonders of Albert Einstein Gymnasium. At the risk of seeming biased, this was by far the most rewarding and informative school visit Principal Vaughn and I have undertaken during our time in Berlin.

The atmosphere at Albert Einstein Gymnasium was serene and focused, and the students I interacted with were mature, focused, and highly proficient in English. The school's areas of emphasis are music and art, and the hallways and common areas bear this out--student artwork adorns most walls on this campus housing over 1,100 students.


Some of the highlights from today's visit: the senior English class where the discussion centered around illegal immigration and T.C. Boyle's book The Tortilla Curtain; our student tourguides who were sincere, mature, international-minded, and cheerful; the campus that was so clean I would have eaten off the floor without complaint; the English department chair/hostess who was unfailingly helpful and willing to answer difficult questions about German reunification and the integration of immigrants into mainstream German society; being given a copy of an original letter from Albert Einstein dated 1955 that granted the school permission to use his name provided the situation in Germany did not revert to its pre-Word War II status; the senior geography class where students examined the pros and cons of organic food products and the ways in which the European Union monitors farms' compliance with organic produce criteria.

Leaving the campus, I felt honored that AEACMS and Albert Einstein Gymnasium share a namesake; I am hopeful we will learn from the many positive aspects of this school and likewise they can learn from us.

Tomorrow we are off to Dresden. Given the two hour train ride each way and our full itinerary (which hopefully will include viewing at least part of the opening game of the 2010 World Cup featuring Mexico vs. South Africa), I may wait until Saturday to post my next entry.

I would like to thank the AEACMS community for supporting my endeavors and for following this blog, especially out students. If this trip inspires young people to travel abroad and expand their horizons, it will all have been worth it, and then some.

All best.

Go Mexico in the opening game!

DVS

John Lennon High School

Today I visited John Lennon high school located in the former East Berlin. The school, one of the top-ranked in the city, is housed in a 120 year old building that looks out onto a leafy courtyard. Racks of student bicycles attest to the favored form of transport. When the Berlin wall fell 20 years ago, the decision was made to update the school's name. Parents, students, and teachers had equal say in the naming process. Students wanted the new name to be Bob Marley high school, while teachers favored a more traditional name. Finally, parents swung the vote in favor of a compromise. As a result, images of the school's namesake can be seen everywhere; titles of Beatles songs hang above classroom doors, and the main stairwell is decorated with stencils of Lennon's signature glasses.

After an orientation and several cups of coffee with the principal, we spent time in a 10th grade English class. Students were discussing the concept of stereotypes, and were analyzing clips from the film Legally Blonde. While the teacher began the lesson leading the discussion from the front of the room, within minutes the 24 students were divided into groups and deep in cooperative discussion.

I had an opportunity to address the class and ask a few questions. Students indicated that there was little or no bullying behavior on campus, and despite the fact that the school is open and has no school personnel stationed in the entryway, students comply with the requirement to remain on campus the entire day out of loyalty to their teachers. A few hours after we concluded our visit, scores of students marched down a nearby street to protest education budget cuts.

I was impressed with the students' overall English language proficiency; over half the students in this school will participate in a year abroad in the US or other parts of the world, and students told me many of their classes focus internationally rather than specifically on Germany or even Europe.

Below are some photos from today:

Titles from Beatles songs adorn walls.

Discussing stereotypes with 10th grade English students.

View from the courtyard of John Lennon school.

Construction sites are everywhere in the school's neighborhood, including directly across the street.
Tomorrow we are off to see the Albert Einstein school!

DVS

Various photos from school visits

Today was a busy, engaging, and informative day--we traveled by train to Potsdam to visit two schools (Kindergarten and elementary) as well as an after-school program operating at two separate sites. It was compelling to think that just twenty years ago the area we visited was in East Berlin. In fact, all the school buildings and nearby apartments were constructed in the past 15 years, so they don't have the industrial cinderblock look of older structures that were built before the fall of the Berlin wall.

At each of the facilities we visited classrooms, met with teachers and staff, and ate our fill of cookies and bratwurst and drank plenty of coffee. We also had an opportunity to offer our impressions of what we saw...more on this in a later post.

Following are various photos from the past two days:

A wooden castle for students to play in during their after-school experience. Many of the toys and classroom items we saw were made of natural, sustainable materials.

The elementary school had fewer than 20 computers in their technology lab; we didn't see any classroom computers for student use.

Elementary school gymnasium. This was a dance class in progress, taught by an outside contractor.

We stumbled upon a skit in the first/second grade English class. The student on the left repeated the refrain, "I am an earthworm" while a succession of animals questioned his importance because he simply lived underground.

Elementary school entrance foyer.

Front of the elementary school.

Wooden toys in Kindergarten classes.

Bundestag seen from the top level. Note the class encasement.

Brandenburg gate.

Thanks for your interest in my Berlin experiences. Check back frequently for more posts.

DS

Bundestag and First School Visits

As my jetlag continues to fade (although I am up before the sun writing this post and listening to scores of birds greet the day outside my hotel room), I enjoyed the first weekday of this Berlin exchange. The international flavor of the city invigorates me and gives hope for our AEACMS graduates as they enter a world where communication across cultures and languages is critical to success and fulfillment. Our waiter this evening spoke German, Spanish, English, Greek, and Italian, at times interchangeably. Multilingualism is common in Berlin, a fact that AEA German exchange participants have noted on their visits here. This is further confirmation of the importance of language study at AEA both in German and Spanish.

In addition to a comprehensive overview of the German education system, we visited the Bundestag on a private tour. I was struck both by the history that was palpable and visible in this building, as well as the modern architecture. Despite the modernization, several walls have been preserved still bearing the handwritten names of Soviet soldiers who occupied the building in 1945 as World War II drew to a close. In addition to saving these names as part of the historical record, there is a vertical ticker that continuously scrolls the text of speeches and documents created and presented by an array of German politicians over time. Documents created by the Nazis are also included in this ticker, but the letters are inverted.

Much of the Bundestag's structure is glass, suggesting a new openness and transparency to the German political system. From the roof we enjoyed a spectacular view of Berlin at sunset.

Today we are scheduled to visit a daycare center, a Kindergarten, and an elementary or Grundschule (grades 1-6). I am excited about the opportunity to explore the similarities and differences between the way we start children in school in San Diego and how this works in Berlin.

Specifically for the IB learners at Albert Einstein Academies, I will be reflecting on the following questions (and doubtless more) during our visits today:

• What can I learn from the way German schools meet the needs of students ages birth through sixth grade that might benefit AEA students?
• What might I share with the staffs at these institutions that may assist them in their programs?
• What are classroom environments like compared with AEACMS?
• How do students, teachers, and principal interact and how does this compare with the culture of AEACMS?
• What role do parents play in these schools?
• How do these schools meet the diverse needs of all students?

I will be posting photos from the Bundestag as well as today's outings later Tuesday afternoon (Berlin time). Off for a dawn run as Berlin wakes up...

DS

The adventure begins...

Due to the generosity of the Checkpoint Charlie Foundation and the support of the AEA Board of Trustees, I am off to Berlin to experience the language, culture, and educational system. Over the course of the next two weeks I will post reflections and photos. Stay tuned!